Travel & Escapes: Guide to Okanagan and Similkameen Valleys in British Columbia

Top down, we drive past golden hills dotted with vineyards that roll into glacially carved lakes. A cool breeze runs through my hair and I crank up the Neil Young. The convertible weaves its way through a seemingly endless array of orchards, branches heavy with juicy stone fruit and tart heirloom apples. Farmstands, u-picks, and vineyards line the road, unadulterated by fast food chains or neon signs. This slower side of British Columbia found in the Okanagan and Similkameen Valleys feels like Canada’s best kept secret—a road trip that, until now, only insiders knew about.

Recently though, the region has been on the rise. The beating heart of the Okanagan Valley, Kelowna, was named the only UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy in Canada. The designation recognized the region’s rich Indigenous history, multigenerational heritage farms, award-winning wines, and a farm-to-table food scene that weaves them all together.

B.C.’s Valleys and Vineyards are ripe for a long weekender, but if you have the time make it a proper weeklong adventure, starting in the Northern Okanagan in Vernon, making your way through the charming city of Kelowna, then heading south, eventually landing in the pocket desert of Osoyoos and the nearby Similkameen Valley, a trip that highlights the varied terroir of this special corner of Canada.

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What to Do

Every good trip starts with some movement, and there’s no better way to do it than with Myra Canyon Bike Rentals. Owners Ben and Annelies Vos embrace their Dutch cycling roots, gleefully guiding guests on e-bikes along the Kettle Valley Rail Trail, where eighteen man-made trestles, steel bridges, and tunnels cling to mountainsides with views that drop straight down to Okanagan Lake.

To get a taste of local lake life that locals live and breathe by, paddle out onto Kalamalka Lake from Kalavida Surf Shop. The name means “lake of many colors,” and on a summer afternoon, you’ll understand why. Rent a stand-up paddleboard, grab some vegan fudge or a fresh Aussie pie at their cafe next door, and just float. The lake is cold and clear and bordered by evergreen hills that feel completely untouched.

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If you’re here during the fall months, Paynter’s Fruit Market is an institution worth stopping for. U-pick your own apples and pears from rows of idyllic farmland that’s been in the family since 1951.

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Then drive about 45 minutes to Munson Mountain near Penticton for a short, sweaty hike to work off all the tasty treats. Another worthy stop is Vaseaux Lake Provincial Park in Oliver, part of the Pacific flyway and a must-see for birdwatchers and avian enthusiasts.

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A good trip is all about balance, and wellness is at the forefront at Loyly, a Nordic-style sauna and cold plunge situated right in the downtown Kelowna marina. Soak in the sunset while enjoying views of dragon boats passing by and Canada geese flying along the horizon.

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If a proper spa treatment is in order, make sure to visit Solterra Desert Spa, tucked inside Spirit Ridge Resort in Osoyoos. They specialize in modalities from desert massage to mud wraps, emphasizing the healing powers of nature.

Where to Eat

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The food scene here moves with the seasons and the farms that feed it. In Kelowna, must-stops include Sunny’s Modern Diner in downtown Kelowna, a bright, lake-view spot named after the owners’ golden retriever and known for their Caesar cocktails (a Canadian specialty similar to a bloody Mary), pancakes, and brunchy fare.

For post-wine tasting eats that’ll fill the belly and give you a break from the cheese boards, Hatching Post Brewery and Smokery offers down-home country cooking that even Texans would approve of. Think Southern-style smoked brisket and savory sides like baked beans and mac ‘n’ cheese.

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For a meal with a view, Hillside Winery Bistro along Naramata Bench serves small plates meant for sharing. The upper patio overlooking Okanagan Lake at golden hour is the type of place you want to linger for an entire afternoon over a bottle of rosé with your friends.

Pane Vino in Lake Country is arguably one of the most idyllic places you’ll ever dine, and is perfect for date night or an evening with a group of friends. Sit outside under terraced grape vines lit up with twinkle lights, and enjoy woodfired pizzas and handmade pastas with a perfect Negroni.

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The Bear, The Fish, The Root & The Berry at Spirit Ridge is the valley’s most ambitious restaurant. Named after a creation story of the Okanagan Nation, it serves modern vineyard cuisine inspired by Indigenous roots. Think Chinook salmon, bitterroot, and Saskatoon berries.

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If you want casual and authentic, La Marqueza Mexican Tacos & Market in Osoyoos brings real Mexican flavors to the South Okanagan. Owners Mara and Miguel import ingredients directly from Mexico and use grass-fed meats for their dishes, including pozole that stands up to any mercado in Guadalajara, where the family hails from.

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The most radical farm-to-table experience is dinner at Row Fourteen, situated on Klippers Organic Acres in Cawston. Most produce is harvested less than a third of a mile from where it’s plated. This is farm-to-table at its most literal and most delicious.

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For a grab-and-go on the drive south, Kekuli Cafe serves bannock in clever and tasty ways in a space built on Indigenous cultural pride. Think open-faced smoked salmon sandos and delicious local berry-studded pastries made with this Indigenous staple.

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Some other incredible farmstands worth visiting in the area are Gatzke’s Market and Parsons Farm Market.

Where to Drink

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The sprawling property at Mission Hill Estate Winery is where Okanagan wine began. In 1981, when everyone else was growing apples, Anthony von Mandl planted vines. Now, the award-winning Terrace Restaurant, known for its seasonal tasting menus, overlooks forty acres of vineyards. There are even thoughtful non-alcoholic pairings for those who don’t imbibe.

Another notable stop is Niche Winery in West Kelowna, founded by Joanna and James Schlosser, who recently opened the on-site Outside Inn, a collection of ultra-chic vineyard-side modular cabins that really dial up the agritourismo feel.

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Down in Oosoyoos, Nk’Mip Cellars is the first Indigenous-owned-and-operated winery in North America, and the award-winning wines—their Qwam Qwmt reserve especially—speak for themselves. The tasting room is distinctive, and the local Indigenous artisan merchandise is worth browsing. After a tasting, stop by Sweetgrass, where you’ll find delicious dishes that tap into the land and local traditions.

Drive south to the Similkameen and visit Orofino Winery in Cawston. They’ve spent twenty years mapping every microterrain in the valley—from the scorching bench vineyards to the cool high-elevation sites. You’ll taste the difference elevation makes.

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For a taste of the region’s world renown ciders, swing by Twisted Hills Craft Cider and Untangled Craft Cider, both in Cawston, both making organic, estate-grown ciders that have nothing to do with mall-brand hard seltzer. Twisted Hills grows cider-specific apple varieties; Untangled calls itself “field to table, tree to tap.”

We stumbled across Off the Grid winery thanks to a recommendation from their family down at Paynter’s, and we’re so glad we did. Not only do they do awesome wine tastings that include zero proof options, but they have a herd of the most adorable goats to pet—an activity both adults and kids can get behind.

Where to Stay

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Hotel Eldorado in Kelowna is the hub of the action on the lake. The historic Victorian inn is known for live music and for being in the center of it all. Other adorable options for those looking to stay in the urban heart include the retro Hotel Zed and the new and beautifully appointed modular cabins at Outside Inn.

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Spirit Ridge Resort in Osoyoos is built on the cultural foundation of the Osoyoos Indian Band. The property embraces local Indigenous art, language, and food through their on-site cultural center, where guests can explore the rich culture through the lens of the locals. There’s a world-class spa (Solterra), a serious restaurant utilizing indigenous ingredients (The Bear, The Fish, The Root & The Berry), and the kind of landscape views and hospitality that make you understand why people never leave this special corner of Canada.