At Besharam in San Francisco, chef Heena Patel reimagines the vegetarian flavors of her Gujarati childhood through a California lens. The result: comforting, plant-forward dishes that speak to both body and soul.

Besharam Food and Drink Overhead Shot

Thomas J. Story

From the moment you step inside Besharam in San Francisco’s Dogpatch neighborhood, you sense a kitchen that wears its heart on its sleeve. Chef and co-owner Heena Patel has built Besharam as a space of fearlessness, where childhood flavors from Gujarat sit side-by-side with California’s seasonal bounty.

Besharam co-owners Heena and Paresh Patel.
Photo by Thomas J. Story.

The name itself, which loosely translates to “shameless,” signals her intention: bold, expressive cooking rooted in heritage and unafraid to evolve. Over years of developing her voice, Heena has reinvested in vegetarian traditions with a modern twist. At Besharam, her plate is a bridge between memory and experimentation: the Gujarati dishes she absorbed at the table with her mother and aunts, reinterpreted with Californian produce and a lightness of touch.

Thomas J. Story

This collection of recipes—poori, Ringan no Oro, Gajar Halwa, Malai Koftas—draws on that same sensibility: comforting, deeply flavored, and rooted in plant-forward traditions in dishes that nourish the body as well as delight the palate. Many of these dishes lean on ingredients long prized for their health benefits: turmeric for its natural anti-inflammatory properties, cumin and asafoetida for their digestive support, and fresh herbs for brightness and micronutrients. Legumes, vegetables, and nuts provide slow, sustaining energy—proof that comfort food can be both grounding and good for you.

Heena Patel serves up a healthy feast at Besharam.

Thomas J. Story

In a season when we often crave warmth and centering, these dishes invite us to slow down, savor textures, and remember that “healthful” need not mean austere. Think of them as a kind of culinary wellness: food that heals through pleasure, through connection to tradition, and through the slow alchemy of spice and technique. Let Besharam’s heart become yours at the stove.

Get a Taste of Gujarat at Home


Search All of Sunset’s Recipes