This Secret, Cozy Mountain Town Lets You Ski or Just Chill without the Crowds

Nestled in a spectacular sliver of the Salmon River Mountains, McCall, Idaho, is a mountain town somewhat frozen in time. Situated among dense Ponderosa pines, it’s a scenic two-hour drive from bustling Boise, but it couldn’t seem farther away. With Brundage and Tamarack Mountains nearby, the main draw for travelers in the winter months is the snow. But even if you’re not a die-hard winter sports enthusiast, there’s a hearty helping of Western nostalgia beckoning in this charming part of the Gem State.

Brundage Mountain Resort

In a world where lift lines at mega-resorts are choked with crowds, the quaint, independently owned Brundage Mountain Resort feels like a step back in time in the best way. First opened in 1961 in partnership with Norwegian Olympic ski champion Corey Engen, the mountain is now phasing in a 10-year plan that will feature a new 20,000-square-foot modern lodge, new lifts, and improved terrain, as well as establishing the first lodging on Brundage. Though as of 2020, it’s no longer owned by the DeBoer Family, descendants of the resort’s co-founder Warren Brown, the homegrown feel remains.

Scandia Hotels

As with many mountain towns in the West, there’s a distinct connection to Nordic alpine culture in McCall. That heritage is being woven into spaces like the Scandia Inn, which was first established in the 1970s by Finnish homesteaders. The boutique roadside hotel has been tastefully revived to reflect the recent fascination with Scandinavian design; think shiplap headboards fashioned from local timber, minimalist Edison light fixtures, and an outdoor barrel sauna. The alpine lodge is a brisk 10-minute walk to the shores of peaceful Payette Lake, which bustles with fishermen and boaters in the summertime. But even when the lake is frozen over, it makes for great views.

Chris Wellhausen

In the winter months, life in McCall is all about the snow. Which is what brought me out, too. I tagged along with the 10 Barrel Brewing ski and snowboarding team, who had set up shop at a lodge to film in the mountain’s 18,000 acres of backcountry terrain for the season. While the pros took the Snowcat to catch fresh powder during the day, I headed to Ponderosa State Park Visitor Center to check out McCall’s excellently groomed Nordic ski tracks. The park is peaceful and teeming with wildlife. It’s quiet, meditative, and still—a foil to the shredding the team did up on the mountain.

Krista Simmons

There’s no shortage of cozy spots for après-ski, but Rupert’s Restaurant at the historic Hotel McCall has one of the best views of the lake in town. It’s known for its extensive wine list and menu stacked with traditional mountain fare like elk meatloaf, and the bar is a great place for people-watching. The hotel has been open since 1904 and serves as a hub for locals.

Chad Case

After a night’s rest, I grab a latte at North Fork Coffee Roasters and head out to one of the area’s magnificent hot springs. Idaho is one of the most thermally active areas of the U.S. The spectacular Burgdorf Hot Springs, located 32 miles outside McCall, requires reservations, as guests need to be snowmobiled in during the winter months. But at Gold Fork Hot Springs, all you’ll need is a solid four-wheel drive to soak your weary bones after a day on the mountain. (Pro tip: Arrive early to avoid the crowds and bring money, as admission is cash-only.)

Shore Lodge

Back in town, the ideal place to pop in for lunch is Frenchie’s on Third, known for its Creole cuisine like po’boys and delightfully spicy gumbo, as well as a rotating tap of local craft brews, like from Salmon River Brewery based in McCall. There are slightly more gussied-up options in town too, like The Sushi Bar, or The Narrows Steakhouse at the Shore Lodge. But I decided to round out my weekend with a proper feed at the family-owned Brunchette on the Lake, known for its Insta-worthy breakfasts like crème brûlée oatmeal and the Mountain Man special, a stick-to-your-ribs helping of Idaho home fries mixed with caramelized sweet onions, bacon jam, and diced chicken-fried steak, topped with rich country gravy and three farm eggs. Needless to say, I returned home with a full belly after an adventure-filled winter weekender.