Before he made a name for himself as a vegan author, food stylist, and photographer, Edgar Castrejón grew up in Oakland eating savory meat stews, seafood ceviche, and chicken dishes, immersed in the flavors and culinary traditions of his Mexican-American family. But in college he adopted a fully vegan diet for both philosophical and health reasons. As he writes in his excellent new cookbook, Provecho: 100 Vegan Mexican Recipes to Celebrate Culture and Community: “That’s when I really set out to veganize the foods I grew up eating. However, I didn’t want to call foods out for being vegan. I just wanted to make tasty food that happens to be plant-based.” And so began a culinary journey to “create vegan versions of generations-old recipes, without sacrificing the authentic Mexican flavors that my family expected and held dear.”
Provecho is a prime example of how to subtly tweak tried-and-true Mexican favorites into satisfying plant-based dishes that together read like a litany of Latin American deliciousness: from hearty tofu and jackfruit posole, in both red and green forms, to nutty punchy pipián that can ennoble a simple bowl of Spanish rice, to saffron-tinged masa-and-flour Colombian empanadas stuffed with Yukon Gold potatoes, studded with garlic and topped with bright pico de gallo.
These dishes and others preserve the flavors of their foundational recipes but adopt ingredients not typically found in the Mexican larder. That includes jackfruit, the tropical fruit you can braise until it breaks down and can be shredded into tender strands like a slow-cooked chicken or pulled pork; vegan cheese with all the sharp taste and creaminess of cheddar; and aquafaba, chickpea broth that whips up fluffy like egg whites. Castrejón brings all the richness of meat and dairy in a full plant-based fashion.
While the savory recipes sing, the book also includes a chapter devoted to inspiring vegan desserts, from no-bake vegan cheesecake to apple empanadas. As we head into the holidays, we’ve excerpted a few sweet treats for you to bake and gift or keep on hand to celebrate with family and friends—no dairy or gluten required.
Healthy(ish!) Mexican Holiday Recipes
1 of 3Edgar Castrejón
Galletas de Almendras
“Whenever I think about these almond cookies, I think of my Aunt Chely,” says Edgar Castrejón in the cookbook, Provecho: 100 Vegan Mexican Recipes to Celebrate Culture and Community. “Galletas de almendras were a fixture at the start of Advent (the weeks leading up to Christmas), and I recall waking up during that time to the aroma of her crushing almonds in the kitchen. This was the only thing that she’d let me help her with, and she’s the reason I love baking. My gluten-free version here is a tribute to her original recipe. It’s not just the memories that put me in the holiday mood. The powdered sugar on top of the cookies evokes snowy winters. Now, I dust confectioners’ sugar through my grandma’s doilies to make patterns on the cookies. She crocheted them for me to use on my future dining table. That touch makes them extra-special, but the cookies are still pretty without the doily patterns.”
2 of 3Edgar Castrejón
Galletas de Jengibre
Castrejón shares that one of his favorite treats from Mexican pastry shops is marranitos, little gingerbread pigs. “My gluten-free ginger cookies are based on marranitos, except these are round and not shaped like pigs. They’re flaky outside, chewy inside, and not too sweet. I found that adding a little apple cider vinegar helps make the cookies taste sweet without adding more sugar.”
3 of 3Edgar Castrejón
Pastelitos
“I made these cakes as mini Bundts so you can have them anytime, with just a few people or even by yourself. I also took care to make them diabetes-friendly,” says Castrejón. “I get sad when I see some of my relatives unable to partake in desserts. I want everyone to still be able to indulge in something sweet, so I had them in mind when choosing the ingredients for this recipe. For example, the oat and almond flours have more protein and fiber than wheat flour. Both aspects can slow the absorption of sugar and help improve blood sugar levels for those with type 2 diabetes.”
