These Recipes Are the Epitome of California Comfort Cooking—and They’re from L.A.’s Best New Wine Bar
A little bit French, a lot of L.A., Bar Etoile in L.A.’s emerging Melrose Hill arts district is setting the bar high for a new model of wine bars in the West.
Thomas J. Story
Many roads lead to a restaurant opening: meals eaten, restaurants visited for inspiration, research trips taken, recipes tasted, Pinterests pinned, and for one partner at the new restaurant Bar Etoile in Los Angeles, a single bottle of wine in France.
Bar Etoile co-owner Jill Bernheimer had never tasted anything like it: It was alive and vibrant and a little earthy, and maybe what you’d call funky. She was on vacation at a restaurant in Paris and had no idea that she was drinking a bottle made by one of the pioneers of the natural wine movement, that contested genre of fermented grape juice that most can agree is based on minimal intervention, contains wild yeast, and is possibly biodynamic, probably organic, and likely regeneratively farmed.
Thomas J. Story
Inspired by this thrilling new-to-her (and at the time, newish to much of the United States) experience, she learned everything she could about natural wine, left her career in the entertainment industry, and opened a store specializing in natural wine, the first of its kind in Los Angeles. It’s called Domaine LA, which went on to spawn many imitators, and Bernheimer became known as a goddess of sorts of this lovely low-intervention movement.
Her shop attracted Julian Kurland, a former beer sommelier and New York and L.A. restaurant veteran, who joined forces with Bernheimer at the shop and now as co-owner at Bar Etoile—the kind of restaurant with the right type of vibe, food, and wine to inspire career changes. Situated on a developing stretch of Western Avenue that’s home to a growing collection of award-winning restaurants, big-time and independent galleries, and fashion, furniture, and design stores, it’s very much of the moment in the evolution of this area of L.A.
Thomas J. Story
There’s the wine, of course, a wide-ranging list of natural-esque bottlings from around the world; smart cocktails; an elegant space designed by Lovers Unite with sexy banquettes and booths; a zinc-topped bar in the center; and low, flattering lighting that all combine to channel the chicer Parisian neo-bistros. The food from chef Travis Hayden is simple and artfully plated: chunky steak tartare, zippy crudo, two-day-brined rotisserie chicken with persimmon béarnaise, and, yes, steak frites. The recipes here are what we think of as the new California comfort cooking: built on well-sourced protein and farmers market ingredients; just rich enough to satisfy, but not so much to weigh you down; perfect with a good bottle of wine; ideal for a party to celebrate new beginnings.
Recipes from the Bar Etoile Menu
Spiced Almonds
Not too spicy and not too sweet, this elevated take on bar snacks is deceptively simple, the ideal little crunchy and slightly spicy treat to nibble on while you sip wine.
Kumquat Gildas
Legend has it that the Gilda—the spicy, salty, classic Basque bar snack, or pintxo—was named after the Rita Hayworth character in the eponymous film. This version incorporates tangy-sweet kumquats, adding another zippy layer of flavor to this superlative nibble.
Blistered Snap Peas with Feta and Walnut Gremolata
Crunchy, sweet snap peas benefit from a green-fixing blanch and a quick turn in a super-hot pan to play up their crisp character with a little toasty char. Rich walnut gremolata spiked with lemon and briny feta makes for a vibrant side dish.
Spatchcocked Roasted Chicken with Coriander Honey and Creamy Root Vegetables
Smoked paprika and other chile powders give this simple roasted chicken satisfying bass notes, while the punch of coriander honey makes this a moreish dish. (You know… you’ll want more of it.) Make the most of the hot oven and cook roasted root vegetables at the same time. The veggies are dipped in a Japanese Kewpie mayo crème fraîche. Kewpie mayonnaise is made with all yolks; it is thus richer than the standard stuff, and it enriches one of the easiest, tastiest sauces we’ve had in years. Make extra and put it on pretty much everything.
Read the 2024 Wine Issue Right Here!
Get one year of Sunset—and all kinds of bonuses—for just $29.95. Subscribe now!
