Grilled Chicken with Serrano Ponzu
Reprinted with permission from Cooking the Borderlands: Spice and Smoke Between Mexico and the States by Claudette Zepeda. Copyright © 2026 by Claudette Zepeda. Photographs copyright © 2026 by David Alvarado. Published by Clarkson Potter, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Penguin Random House LLC, New York
For many of us in the border regions, charcoal-grilled chicken is as beloved a food as tacos. The smell of the meat hitting the charcoal grill takes me back to my early-morning commutes across the border to our new school in San Diego: It’s the smell from the hundreds of food vendors starting their days.
The scene I just described is probably easy to imagine, but what you might not know is that Japanese ponzu sauce is a common staple at restaurants and in homes in Tijuana. Classic ponzu is made by simmering a mixture of soy sauce, mirin, vinegar, katsuobushi (smoked, dried, and shaved fish flakes), and kombu (kelp), then straining and adding citrus juice. It’s a personal favorite of mine, and an identifier for many Norteños or Tijuanenses.
Between 1920 and 1940, a large population of Japanese emigrants arrived in Ensenada, Baja California. From then, Japanese influence stayed relatively confined to the coast and down the Baja Peninsula, where the Japanese helped establish commercial fishing and farming. Japanese-Mexican cross-pollination still gave us some of the tastiest condiments and, importantly, battered fish. (Did you ever think about how the classic fried fish taco looks a bit like tempura? Well, that’s exactly what it is.)
But about this recipe. It’s a classic grilled chicken with a homemade ponzu, so you can have the experience of making your own. Of course, we wouldn’t be Mexican if we didn’t throw in some charred serrano peppers while we’re at it. You’ll probably have leftover ponzu sauce—I keep the extra sauce handy in a mason jar in the fridge and use it to dress my steamed rice. It will keep for a week in the refrigerator, though in my house, it never lasts that long.
Yield: 4 servings.
How to Make It
1
Chargrill the Veggies: Fill a coal chimney with charcoal, light it, and wait 20 minutes until the charcoals turn completely gray with ash. Dump the coals into the bottom of a charcoal grill and place a clean grill grate over them. (Alternatively, set a gas grill to medium-high heat.)
2
Place the serrano peppers and green onions on the grill. Grill them whole, using tongs to turn them so they char on all sides. Once they are charred, remove them from the grill, then set aside until cool enough to handle.
3
Remove the stems and seeds, then mince the peppers and reserve for the ponzu sauce. Mince the green onions and reserve for garnish.
4
Make the Ponzu Sauce: In a saucepan, whisk together the soy sauce, vinegar, and ¾ cup of water. Toss in the lemongrass and ginger. Place the saucepan on the stovetop and bring the mixture to a simmer over medium heat, then turn the heat off and cover the pot with a lid. Let the ingredients steep for 10 minutes to infuse flavor.
5
Strain the ponzu base through a fine-mesh sieve into a medium bowl. Discard the solids. Then, pour the strained liquid back into the same pot and place over medium heat to bring to a simmer.
6
Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk together the cornstarch and 2 tbsp of cold water to make a slurry. Pour the slurry mixture into the ponzu, whisking continuously until the sauce thickens. Once thickened, turn off the heat and set the pot aside to cool.
7
After the sauce cools, stir in the orange juice and the minced, charred serrano peppers and set aside.
8
Make the Chicken: Now, we’re moving back to the grill. Pat the chicken thighs dry with paper towels and drizzle with the grapeseed oil to coat on both sides. Season the chicken all over with salt and white pepper, then transfer the thighs directly onto the hot grill. Cook for 5 minutes on one side, then turn each thigh and cook the other side for 5 more minutes, or until they reach an internal temperature of 165°F. Remove the thighs from the grill and allow them to rest for 5 to 10 minutes before serving.
9
To serve, spoon the ponzu onto a serving platter to cover and place the grilled chicken on top. Garnish the chicken with cilantro, lime zest, and the charred green onions. Serve with steamed rice and lime on the side, and drizzle with remaining ponzu.
Ingredients
For the Ponzu
2 whole serrano peppers
3 green onions (white and green parts)
2 ½ cups soy sauce
½ cup rice vinegar
1 stalk lemongrass, smashed and cut into 2-in. pieces
2 tbsp ginger root, freshly grated
3 tbsp cornstarch
2 cups orange juice, freshly squeezed
For the Grilled Chicken
2 lbs boneless chicken thighs
2 tbsp grapeseed oil
Diamond Crystal kosher salt
ground white pepper
For Serving
½ cup minced cilantro
zest of 2 limes
steamed rice
2 limes, cut into cheeks
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