These Ridiculously Delicious Yakitori Recipes Will Have You Grilling This Fall
Binchotan smoke perfumes the air as the team from Tsubaki, one of the West’s best izakayas, cooks a California-inflected Japanese grilled feast fit for fall.
Thomas J. Story
Not far from Dodger Stadium in Los Angeles, there’s a jewel box of a restaurant called Tsubaki. Over the years, it has set the bar high for izakayas, the small Japanese neighborhood restaurants that combine good sake and delicious dishes that go great with drinks. This self-described “Los Angeles izakaya with Japanese roots and a California state of mind” serves dishes like Japanese “latkes” topped with salmon and yuzu scallion crème fraîche as well as a potato croquette “danger dog” korokke that pays homage to the street hot dogs of Los Angeles. Tsubaki’s transcendent version is topped with jalapeño and boasts a premium Kurobuta pork sausage instead of a standard steamed or griddled frank. It also has exceptional yakitori, expertly cooked over charcoal until smoky, just charred, and ridiculously savory and satisfying.
Thomas J. Story
The masterminds behind this homage to the best of the West and the East are Charles Namba and his business partner, sake sommelier, and wife Courtney Kaplan. They also run the excellent sake bar OTOTO as well as Camelia, a Japanese-French bistro in L.A.’s Arts District.
Thomas J. Story
They took a break from their busy schedules to show us how yakitori is custom-made for a fall feast in the West, thanks to the balmy days of early autumn allowing for an al fresco setting for the smoky tabletop yakitori grill. To get the perfectly charred yakitori flavor, Charles uses a konro grill made of fireclay and fueled with Japanese binchotan, a hardwood charcoal that burns hot and steady and gives meats and vegetables a lacquered mahogany crust, particularly when basted with tare sauce. He also dishes up Japanese-inflected takes on Caesar salad and potato salad and a showstopping grilled pork as a large-format centerpiece. To round out the full izakaya experience, Courtney has paired excellent sakes with each of the dishes to round out the feast.
A Taste of Tsubaki at Home
Tsubaki Caesar Salad
Tsubaki’s take on the Caesar salad is upgraded with a mix of romaine and Salanova lettuces and an umami-rich dressing of Kewpie mayonnaise, miso, and ponzu. Panko breadcrumbs stand in for the traditional croutons.
Chicken Thigh Yakitori
One of the most popular yakitori dishes and for good reason: Salted chicken thighs are difficult to overcook, stay succulent, and take on the smoky flavors of the grill. Lightly brush with tare sauce for an extra burst of umami, then serve with yuzu kosho for a spicy, citrusy kick.
Tsubaki Potato Salad
The combination of creamy Kewpie mayonnaise, tangy Dijon mustard, and crunchy takanazuke pickles creates a delightful balance of flavors and textures. It’s a versatile dish that can be enjoyed warm or cold, making it ideal for picnics or barbecues.
Ebi Sumibi-Yaki
Ebi Sumibi-Yaki, or grilled blue prawns, is a simple yet flavorful dish. Marinated in light soy sauce and olive oil, the prawns are grilled and finished with a rich butter sauce. This dish brings out the natural sweetness of the prawns.
Koji-Marinated Pork Loin
Experience the rich umami flavors of koji-marinated pork loin, a Japanese-inspired dish that’s sure to become a favorite. The koji marinade tenderizes the pork and enhances its natural flavors. Paired with a vibrant shiso shishito chimichurri, this dish is perfect for a special occasion or a weeknight dinner.
Sake for the Season
Thomas J. Story
Courtney Kaplan is one of the top sake sommeliers in the West. Here, she shares her perfect pairings for this yakitori feast.
Sawaya Matsumoto ‘Shuhari-Gohyakumangoku’ Junmai (Far Left)
A light, spritzy, refreshing sake, perfect for afternoon sipping. Prickly effervescence and citrus flavors bring to mind grapefruit LaCroix. Crisp and dry with sharp mineral precision, it’s always a great option for pairing with salads and seafood. That mouthful in the name—‘gohyakumangoku’—is the name of the rice, a variety with roots in northern Japan known for making clean, precise styles of sake.
Urakasumi Honjozo Genshu (Second from Left)
This cask-strength sake is a real bruiser! Big, rich, and intense, with layers of roasted rice aromas and flavors. Close attention will reveal even a little bit of burnt caramel and salted butterscotch. A winning choice with grilled meats, particularly the koji-marinated pork loin.
Yuho ‘Eternal Embers’ Junmai (Second from Right)
Located in Ishikawa prefecture—recently devastated by the January 1 earthquake—Yuho is run by the inimitable Miho Fujita, who inherited her family’s brewery while working as a marketing rep for Hot Wheels in Tokyo. Without a long history in the sake brewing business, Miho is not bound by convention and has always done things her own way, hiring a master brewer from outside the region and enthusiastically expressing her unconventional approach to sake brewing and enjoyment. Her classic junmai bottling is anything but basic; aged for over a year in bottle, the sake expresses deep umami flavors balanced by rich dried fruit. A delicious, full-bodied sake to enjoy at all temperatures—keep it on the table throughout your meal and watch it develop as it warms to room temperature. A particularly good match with char-grilled dishes.
Shishi No Sato ‘Shun’ Junmai Ginjo (Far Right)
A truly sessionable sake. Clocking in at just 14% alcohol and showing gentle melon and leafy green aromas atop a clean, refreshing frame, this sake is a real crowd-pleaser that drinks well through a whole meal (and before, and after). A great gateway sake for white-wine drinkers, too. A highly sought after brewery in their home prefecture of Ishikawa, they’ve only recently been able to offer these coveted bottles in the U.S.
