Ask a chef what his or her favorite dish is to make, and it will almost always be something connected to family.
Photo courtesy of El Charro
Written bySunset Staff Updated On December 8, 2022
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The kinds of dishes we tend to make at the holidays—elaborate, indulgent things that serve a crowd, like roasts and fancy bûches de Noël—can sometimes feel like they demand a level of skill bordering on the professional. So did you ever wonder what pros serve for Christmas dinner?
We got curious and asked a few that very question, and their answers were as interesting and varied as the places they are from. Las Vegas chefCarlos Cruz-Santos makes a mole recipe he got from his mother. Chris Brugman, who cooks at a resort in Arizona, favors a rich, crispy Puerto Rican roast. And Chef Diep Tran, whose family brought us Red Boat fish sauce, shares a turkey recipe that’s probably unlike any you’ve ever had at a holiday table before.
These are just a few of the recipes we’re lucky enough to have gathered from the food professionals we spoke to. The common denominator? Well, there really isn’t one. And that’s the beauty of the holidays—they are all about tradition but you get to decide what those traditions are for you and your loved ones.
Cook Like a Pro This Christmas
(You can do it! These recipes are just as sophisticated as you’re imagining, but not nearly as difficult.)
1 of 8José Andrés, courtesy of China Poblano
Mole de Pollo Maria Cruz
Says chef Carlos Cruz-Santos, of China Poblano restaurant in Las Vegas: “I enjoy making a chicken mole my mother makes from the state of San Luis Potosi, Mexico. Unlike most traditional moles that use chocolate to sweeten the dish, this one is bright red [and] both full of flavor and extra-spicy because of the variety of chiles and spices added to the dish.”
2 of 8Courtesy of Paul C. Reilly
Potatoes au Gratin
Paul C. Reilly, executive chef at both beast + bottle and Coperta in Denver, likes to make this favorite dish for family occasions, saying: “This is a dish I made years ago as an alternative to the same old boring mashed potatoes and it has stuck. This is perfect for Christmas dinner, where I feel like the trend has shifted away from turkey and more toward larger beef roasts.”
3 of 8Jenny Dorsey
Long Beans with Pork Belly
Jenny Dorsey, creative director at Studio ATAO, has a go-to dish that is a favorite at the family dinner table: “My husband always requests this…..The long beans must be wok-fried first, then stir-fried again with a mix of ground pork and pork strips. It’s absolutely delicious, and has become a special marker of the holiday season.”
4 of 8Photo courtesy of El Charro
Enchiladas Sonorenses
For Carlotta Flores, of El Charro, in Tucson, nothing brings the family together like masa. “The masa that makes up flat enchiladas is usually simple and blended with a bit of salt, Mexican cheese, and baking powder. Our family is never too far from some fresh masa during the holidays for making tamales, and because it’s gluten-free, many of us in our family prefer it to working with wheat flours. One way we use it is to make an “Enchilada Sonorense,” or Sonoran-style flat enchilada. Simple and delicious, a flat enchilada can be a quick snack or foundation for an amazing sope recipe.”
5 of 8Thomas J. Story
Red Boat Holiday Turkey with Gravy
This is the turkey Chef Diep Tran originally developed for her restaurant, Good Girl Dinette, and she continues to make it every year. To achieve a juicy, richly flavored holiday bird, Diep takes the initial step of spatchcocking so it lays flat while roasting—and roasts faster and more evenly. (If you’d rather not do this step yourself, it’s worth asking your butcher to do it for you.) She then slathers the bird with a wet rub of ginger, toasted spices, and Red Boat fish sauce, and lets it sit in the fridge for up to 4 days. Finally, when it’s time to roast, Diep encases the turkey in generously buttered parchment paper to keep the bird juicy and tender.
6 of 8Courtesy of Chris Brugman
Pernil with Grandma Andrea’s Garlic Sauce
“This recipe is handed down from my great-grandmother,” says chef Chris Brugman. This is a very classic and traditional Puerto Rican dish I grew up on as a child and which is very near and dear to my heart. My mom would make recipes like this all the time but traditionally they marked special occasions and holidays. This would probably be my last meal on Earth, with my mom’s rice and beans.
Salt-Jacket Prime Rib with Horseradish Crème Fraîche
Before roasting the prime rib, Five Marys Ranch owner Mary Heffernan and crew “pack it with a seasoned salt crust, which hardens and browns beautifully as the meat cooks,” the rancher says. “It lifts right off before serving, like removing a jacket, and leaves the meat not salty but perfectly seasoned.” If cooking the full seven-rib roast, double everything in recipe except meat.
“I made these cakes as mini Bundts so you can have them anytime, with just a few people or even by yourself. I also took care to make them diabetes-friendly,” says Edgar Castrejón, vegan author, food stylist, and photographer. “I get sad when I see some of my relatives unable to partake in desserts. I want everyone to still be able to indulge in something sweet, so I had them in mind when choosing the ingredients for this recipe. For example, the oat and almond flours have more protein and fiber than wheat flour. Both aspects can slow the absorption of sugar and help improve blood sugar levels for those with type 2 diabetes.”