A memorable apple cake from Santa Fe

Although Martin Rios was born in Guadalajara, Mexico, where his mother had a restaurant, he grew up in Santa Fe. Here, he followed his mother’s path into a food career. Then he moved on to New York and France to study and work. Now Rios is back in Santa Fe, at the Old House restaurant, where his polish shows ― particularly when he weaves indigenous ingredients into the menu. He serves a moist apple cake, subtly flavored by browned butter, with a warm caramel sauce commonly known as dulce de leche in Latin American countries. Executive chef Rios’s presentation of the cake is quite dramatic, but these tender wedges are just as tasty.