3 Whites You’ll Want to Drink All Summer Long
Summer is the perfect time to get reacquainted with these three ever-more sophisticated varietals
Western producers are finally giving a trio of Alsatian-style wines the attention they deserve, turning out bottles that rival better-known varietals. The kicker: These fruity, aromatic sips pair beautifully with the season’s tricky-to-match foods.
Riesling
Poor Riesling is the victim of a reputation earned decades ago, when much of it in the West was made in a sweet German style but without that country’s characteristic acidity for balance. The result was a syrupy starter drink, something to put behind you when your palate grew up. Come back now, though, and you’ll find far more balanced versions. Some are truly bone-dry; others have a bit of sweetness. (Many are using a scale on their label indicating the level of dryness or sweetness, so you know what you’re getting.) The best ones are grown in places where they retain the variety’s natural crispness. Add to that honeysuckle and jasmine aromas; green apple, stone fruit, and citrus flavors; minerality and nuttiness–and you have one of the world’s great food wines.
Iain Bagwell
On the Table: Dry Rieslings are just the thing for wine-challenging egg dishes–deviled eggs, quiche–and fried seafood (like a shrimp po’boy drizzled with spicy aioli). Off-dry bottles handle the likes of spicy sushi and a broad range of other Asian dishes, from Chinese chicken salad to mango shrimp.
