Capitol Reef to Bluff, Utah
It’s strange how in a place where the Earth’s processes are most evident, I look toward outer space for a point of comparison. Such is the case with the Waterpocket Fold, the 100-mile-long gash that runs through Capitol Reef National Park. Viewing it from the Strike Valley Overlook, I can’t shake the idea that I have seen it before ― but as some anonymous planet of childhood sci-fi imaginings.
Rumbling south on the Notom-Bullfrog Road toward Lake Powell, there are no other cars in sight for 30 miles, just triangular formations, jagged as Cadillac tail fins. The road is beautiful but trying. We are coated in a layer of pale red dust, the fine, almost aerosol remains of the layers of landscape we pass through.
Then, beyond a ripple of coral pink dunes, improbably ― impossibly ― blue Lake Powell spreads out where the Colorado River once flowed through the desert. Dotted with jet skiers and houseboats, the lake’s surface reflects the sun off a million facets, and we drink in the breeze as we make the 25-minute car-ferry passage from Bullfrog to Halls Crossing.