The bistro Manolin takes its name from a character in Ernest Hemingway’s The Old Man and the Sea. (Been awhile since you last read it? Manolin is the old fisherman’s apprentice, who keeps the faith when no one else will.) Rimmed with aquamarine subway tile, the cozy room has a long horseshoe-shaped bar that surrounds the kitchen, so diners can watch chef Alex Barkley plate stunningly fresh fish, like smoked arctic char with sour cream, turnips, mustard, and chives. Owners Joe Sundberg and Rachel Johnson came up with the idea for the place while eating at a beachside joint in Mexico that served only ceviche and whole fried fish. Here, too, the food is light and ocean focused, with the occasional hint of Mexico. Order the whole fried perch for two; just as in the book (spoiler alert!), the only thing left of your story will be the bones.
The bistro Manolin takes its name from a character in Ernest Hemingway’s The Old Man and the Sea. (Been awhile since you last read it? Manolin is the old fisherman’s apprentice, who keeps the faith when no one else will.) Rimmed with aquamarine subway tile, the cozy room has a long horseshoe-shaped bar that surrounds the kitchen, so diners can watch chef Alex Barkley plate stunningly fresh fish, like smoked arctic char with sour cream, turnips, mustard, and chives. Owners Joe Sundberg and Rachel Johnson came up with the idea for the place while eating at a beachside joint in Mexico that served only ceviche and whole fried fish. Here, too, the food is light and ocean focused, with the occasional hint of Mexico. Order the whole fried perch for two; just as in the book (spoiler alert!), the only thing left of your story will be the bones.
