Check in, Learn to Surf: These Beach Hotels Will Teach You How on Your Next Vacation 

Cruising on my longboard, I gaze up at the iconic red turrets of the Hotel del Coronado as gulls glide overhead. There is a pep in my pop-up, as it has been a few months since I’ve been out, and all it has taken was a couple rides to get back in the groove. Stoked and smiling at the end of a long ride, I dismount, and suddenly excruciating pain zings up my heel, like stepping on a giant nail. “It’s fine, let’s keep going,” I tell my instructor Tomo, not wanting to relinquish my session to a stingray. “Nah, we need to get you into some hot water, stat,” he says. If the human version of the stoked sea turtle in Finding Nemo says it’s time to go in, you go in.

The iconic Hotel del Coronado. Photo by Thomas J. Story.

For about an hour, I’m in the most intense pain of my life. They say being stung by a stingray is as painful as giving birth. And as the venom makes its way up my leg, I think my choice to prioritize a career over starting a family may indeed have been a wise one. Submerging my foot in a bucket of scalding hot water to draw the poison out, the adrenaline wears off and doubt creeps in. This is definitely not the bikini-babe-noseriding served by my Instagram algorithm. I’m too old for this.

Thomas J. Story

Dreams of a Blue Crush summer squashed, the pain subsides, and I greet the surf school’s eponymous owner, legendary Pipeline pro Jamie O’Brien, and his wife Tina Cohen. It’s hard to imagine looking any more kooky than shaking hands with your foot in a bucket, but O’Brien’s energy is contagious. “We still on for tomorrow?” he asks. Without hesitation, I blurt out an emphatic yes. The sting still smarts, but there’s zero chance I’m missing the opportunity to paddle out and get psyched with one of the greats. It’s safe to say I’ve caught the stoke—that addictive, incomparable high that comes from riding a wave and being one with the ocean.

Thomas J. Story

Of course, it’s all made significantly easier being based at Shore House, the new suite-only hotel housed inside the historic Hotel del Coronado. There’s no excuse not to be in the water at a location like this, a sentiment only solidified when watching the Navy SEALs doing Hell Week training on the beach in front of the property. This is the freedom they are fighting for, after all.

Shore House is part of an onslaught of new hotels offering this distinct barefoot luxury for the surfset. Guests have access to all the furnishings of the recently revamped Del, originally built in 1888: the kitschy fish taco trucks, the gussied-up seafood restaurant Serẽa, and an incredible spa where you can get facials utilizing elements of the sea. But there’s a homey feel to the newly built residences, making it a great place to hang your wet suit when participating in the new 3- and 5-day clinics available at the Jamie O’Brien Surf Experience in Coronado.

Thomas J. Story

“With our new multi-day options, we’ve created a curriculum that is built to take a first-time surfer to actually catching their own waves by the end of the clinic,” says O’Brien.

“Our normal surf lessons still aim to improve your surfing, but the difference is that they are focused on making it as easy as possible for you to ride a ton of quality waves, and that usually entails our instructors doing a lot of the hard stuff for you, like paddling, wave selection, and pushing in, versus learning how to do those things yourself.”

Thomas J. Story

This isn’t the first time I’ve taken a lesson, but it’s by far the best. My first outing was bought on a Groupon with a local grom, who took my friend and me for a group lesson at El Porto in Manhattan Beach. The waves were incredibly heavy, and we very quickly learned the meaning of the term “washing machine.” It was discouraging to say the least. With O’Brien, at the end of day three, I was indeed doing what he’d aimed for me to do— selecting, paddling into, and catching my own waves consistently—despite the stingray’s best efforts.

Anyone who’s spent a decent amount of time in the water will tell you, the ocean is our greatest teacher. After some reflection on my stingray shuffle kerfuffle, I was reminded that we are just gentle guests in nature’s home. Learning to surf has also taught me that self-confidence and commitment are just as important as a strong paddle and core stability. It’s about being present and having fun. Sometimes, a great session is defined by an epic ride; other times, it’s about finding a perfect sand dollar on the shore, or watching dolphins playfully indulge in the waves, just like us.

Thomas J. Story

I’ll be the first to admit that learning what’s undoubtedly one of the world’s most challenging sports as I approach the big 4-0 is a pretty wild, and some would say foolish, idea. But mounting scientific data points to the fact that acquiring a new skill outdoors can be one of the best things for the brain and body as you age. Studies have shown that lifelong learning results in increased neuron generation, positively affecting memory, attention, thinking, and reasoning skills. Physical activities like surfing that require problem-solving and critical thinking have the capacity to amp up plasticity, too, if done regularly.

Throughout my journey, I’ve found myself acquiring a new sense of proprioception and a deeper connection with the water. Would this venture have been a lot easier if I’d learned as a teenager? Sure. Am I sore in places I didn’t know existed? Absolutely. But it’s actually fun to be terrible at something, building up skills brick by brick. In the real world, failure is embarrassing, but on the water, it allows me space to laugh at my mistakes. It’s tempting to get lost in the comparison game, especially as I dive deep into SurfTok. But shredding at Nazaré truly isn’t even the goal. While my youngers may dream of sponsorships and world tours, my goal is simply to catch a party wave with friends by the end of the summer.

Thomas J. Story

As Dan Buettner states in his popular book-turned-Netflix-series The Blue Zones, community, lifestyle, and spirituality are tied to living a longer, healthier life. Surfing is inextricably tied to a community of early birds, which is what led me to Laguna Surf Lodge. Perched atop Thalia Street’s gentle yet consistent break, the newly revamped hotel makes rising for its signature Dawn Patrol experience a whole lot easier with calming essential oil diffusers, cozy Avocado mattresses, and nature’s ultimate sound machine—waves caressing the shore below.

Our group of morning warriors loads into the lodge’s vintage Land Rover to head south to SoCal’s vibiest surf spot, San Onofre, for a guided session at a break appropriately called Old Man’s with none other than San Clemente surf pro Izzi Gomez as my guide. The morning begins with freshly roasted cowboy coffee and a meditation, the latter of which I really need because the lineup is absolutely stacked and I’m totally intimidated. I don’t want to get in anyone’s way, but inevitably I will. It’s part of learning.

“You don’t need to be anyone other than yourself, right here, right now,” says the Laguna Surf Lodge co-owner Pam Cruse as she closes the meditation.

Thomas J. Story

“What I feel the need to be is a few inches shorter,” I think to myself. In an abundance of confidence, Gomez has brought along a much, much smaller board than this six-foot-tall gal is used to. I feel like a baby giraffe trying to find my balance on the thing, and on my first couple waves, I fully wipe out on my pop-up. The negative self-talk comes creeping back in. But I shake it off as Gomez and I chat between sets about everything from the best reef-safe sunscreens to the tribulations of being a female pro in a male-dominated sport.

When we agree on “one or two more,” I think back to Gomez telling me as we paddled out, “We’re going to get you the best wave of your life today.” I don’t want to let her down. I don’t want to let me down. As I take off, I repeat her words. I visualize, I commit, I send it and ride that wave all the way into shore.

Thomas J. Story

Perma-grin firmly in place, Gomez and I make our way up to the Laguna Surf Lodge crew, who greet us with a warm RinseKit shower and a freshly made farmers market frittata cooked in a cast iron over the firepit. Noshing on what’s surely the fanciest post-surf grind ever plated, I see a statuesque gray-haired woman with the most beautiful smile lines walk her board down the shore—a powerful reminder that the ocean is for everyone.

Thomas J. Story

Swell Stays

Catch the stoke (and a great night’s sleep) at eight more surf hotels.

Courtesy of the Ritz Carlton O’ahu Turtle Bay

The Ritz-Carlton O’ahu, Turtle Bay

The North Shore is known for its world-class competitions at Banzai Pipeline and Sunset Beach—no doubt incredible feats to spectate, but downright dangerous, even for seasoned pros. But that’s not to say a newbie is totally out of luck, especially at this spectacularly redone property, home to one of three of Jamie O’Brien’s surf schools. There’s a soft spot in front of the hotel for beginners to learn. And perfect mai tais to sip during golden hour at Off the Lip. There’s plenty to do aside from catching waves, too. Think snorkeling at Shark’s Cove, hiking at Waimea Valley Trail, and shopping and dining in historic Hale’iwa Town.

Wayfinder Waikiki

Brutalist architecture accented by retro natural fiber furniture and native botanicals gives a groovy island vibe to this new Honolulu hotel. Watch outriggers glide down the Ala Wai from your breezy rooftop lanai while sipping a cup of Kona coffee, then walk to Waikiki Beach to fetch a log and a lesson from the local beach boys. These longstanding stewards of boardriding have graciously taught tourists the sport—whose Polynesian roots were popularized after being brought to Hawaii—following in the footsteps of the “ambassador of aloha,” Duke Kahanamoku. After a session, pop into Redfish for a proper bowl of poke; the restaurant is the second outpost from the iconic Hawaiian grocer Foodland.

Kimpton Shorebreak

Opt for an overnight in Surf City, where you can stroll the Surfing Walk of Fame on Main Street and explore the sport’s heritage at the Huntington Beach International Surfing Museum. If you’re planning on investing in a board, this is the town to do it. HB is home to Shaper’s Alley, where some of the world’s greatest craftsmen have historically set up shop. The Shorebreak is within walking distance of the superb swells that host over 50 annual competitions, including the U.S. Open of Surfing, and it is a quick jaunt down to watch big waves at The Wedge.

Thomas Hart Shelby

The Cape, a Thompson Hotel

The 161-room Cape boasts a prime location fronting Monuments Beach, home to a bucket-list worthy left-hand break. There’s also a restaurant from Mexico’s star chef Enrique Olvera, a serious small-batch tequila collection, and a buzzy rooftop bar with live music. If you want to splurge with your buddies, book the two-story, three-bedroom Surfer Villa. Set a dozen steps from the ocean, the home features a private barbecue, plunge pool, sauna, and a screening room for surf flicks. Plus, your stay comes with two surfboard rentals.

Surfrider Malibu

The Surfrider sits snugly amidst the steep hills of Malibu and is a postcard of the California dream. From the guests-only roof deck, you get unparalleled intimate views of Surfrider Beach and the Malibu Pier, where you can take complimentary stand-up paddle boards and surfboards out for a session. Even if you don’t want to get in the water, it’s a great spot to watch, ideally with a coconut margarita in hand. Longboarders come from far and wide to witness the world-famous Malibu Wall at First Point, made internationally recognizable by the Gidget movies that were filmed here.

The Pierside Santa Monica

New to the Santa Monica scene is this set of sunlit suites that comes complete with a board shop and an al fresco restaurant called The Surfing Fox. Warm woods and beach-inspired artwork nod to the ‘70s Dogtown days, which helped popularize skateboarding and surfing for the masses. Don’t forget to take a gander at the western-facing mural by distinguished street artist and founder of SoCal streetwear brand OBEY, Shepard Fairey.

Courtesy of @seriagency & @surflodgestinsonbeach

Surf Lodge Stinson Beach

Surf Lodge is walking distance from the white sands of the Pacific and located right in the middle of Stinson Beach, known for great hiking and lazy days within the Golden Gate National Recreation Area. Start the day by strolling through the surrounding trails of Muir Woods, then relax in the rooms inspired by modern California surf culture. Think vaulted ceilings and boho decor that throw back to the heyday of surfing in the ’60s. There are rentals at Live Water Surf Shop next door for all your water-based needs.

Alila Marea Beach Resort

Encinitas is practically synonymous with California surf culture, so it’s only fitting that there’s a board butler on staff to provide updates on swell and conditions, as well as providing a bevy of waxes and reef-safe sunscreens. Beginners can book in for a lesson with Fulcrum Surf, then enjoy a sundowner while looking over picturesque Ponto Beach. Be sure to peruse the collection of works from local photographer Aaron Chang after a Baja Med dinner at VAGA.