Winter Greens Curry
Thomas J. Story
Indian dishes are often created in counterpoint to one another. Meeru Dhalwala, co-owner of Shanik restaurant in Seattle as well as Vij’s and Rangoli in Vancouver, adds a bit of brown sugar to this curry since she developed it to accompany a tart tamarind chickpea curry. “I believe in the ultimate pleasure of a dish that is sweet, sour, salty, and bitter,” she says.
How to Make It
Step 1
1
In a large, heavy pot or wok with a lid, melt ghee over medium heat. Meanwhile, chop greens roughly and rinse. "You can use just one or a combination of greens. And ghee gives the greens richness, but you can use any cooking oil instead."
Step 2
2
Sprinkle in cumin seeds, swirl pot to spread, and let sizzle 30 seconds.
Step 3
3
Stir in garlic and sizzle until pale golden, 10 to 20 seconds. Stir in chile and ginger; cook 30 seconds. "I brown the garlic for a toasty flavor, then add the moist ginger and chile to stop the toasting before it gets too dark." Add turmeric and salt and cook 1 minute. Stir in brown sugar.
Step 4
4
Cook until sugar dissolves, about 30 seconds. Add half of greens, increase heat to medium-high, and let wilt until reduced enough to add other half. Using tongs, stir greens well to coat with spice mixture.
Step 5
5
Cook, uncovered, stirring until greens are almost tender, 6 to 8 minutes. Cover and cook 1 minute more. Remove from heat and let sit, covered, 15 minutes. Serve with Tamarind Chickpea Curry and steamed basmati rice if you like.
Step 6
6
*Find ghee (clarified butter) at Indian markets. Or, for Dhalwala's recipe, see sunset.com/ghee.
Step 7
7
Variations: Instead of greens, try an equal amount of sliced brussels sprouts, thinly sliced broccoli stems, or cooked potatoes.
Ingredients
1 pound stemmed mustard greens (from about 3 lbs. whole bunches)
1 pound stemmed kale (from about 3 lbs. whole bunch)
1 1/2 tablespoons cumin seeds
2 tablespoons minced garlic
1 1/2 to 2 tbsp. minced jalapeño chile
1 tablespoon chopped fresh ginger
1 tablespoon turmeric
1 to 1 1/2 tsp. salt
1/2 cup firmly packed dark brown sugar
Directions
Step 1
1
In a large, heavy pot or wok with a lid, melt ghee over medium heat. Meanwhile, chop greens roughly and rinse. "You can use just one or a combination of greens. And ghee gives the greens richness, but you can use any cooking oil instead."
Step 2
2
Sprinkle in cumin seeds, swirl pot to spread, and let sizzle 30 seconds.
Step 3
3
Stir in garlic and sizzle until pale golden, 10 to 20 seconds. Stir in chile and ginger; cook 30 seconds. "I brown the garlic for a toasty flavor, then add the moist ginger and chile to stop the toasting before it gets too dark." Add turmeric and salt and cook 1 minute. Stir in brown sugar.
Step 4
4
Cook until sugar dissolves, about 30 seconds. Add half of greens, increase heat to medium-high, and let wilt until reduced enough to add other half. Using tongs, stir greens well to coat with spice mixture.
Step 5
5
Cook, uncovered, stirring until greens are almost tender, 6 to 8 minutes. Cover and cook 1 minute more. Remove from heat and let sit, covered, 15 minutes. Serve with Tamarind Chickpea Curry and steamed basmati rice if you like.
Step 6
6
*Find ghee (clarified butter) at Indian markets. Or, for Dhalwala's recipe, see sunset.com/ghee.
Step 7
7
Variations: Instead of greens, try an equal amount of sliced brussels sprouts, thinly sliced broccoli stems, or cooked potatoes.
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