Striped Bass Crudo
Thomas J. Story
Firm-fleshed striped bass can stand up to the punchy Middle Eastern spice blend za’atar, which you can readily purchase online. But for the full-on Crudo e Nudo effect, mix up a batch of your own za’atar, which gets extra sweetness from fennel pollen and smoky Piment d’Ville pepper from Mendocino, California’s Booneville Barn Collective.
This recipe, and others like it, can be found in the article “These Easy, Sustainable Seafood Recipes Will Transport You to the Beach.”
How to Make It
1
Make the za’atar: (Skip to the next step if you’re using store-bought za’atar.) Mixing well, combine all za’atar ingredients at left. Set aside.
2
Prepare the dish: Using a very sharp knife, preferably a slicing knife, make long slices perpendicular to the grain of the muscles in the fish. The lines that you see are the direction of the grain—you are slicing across them, not with them. Make long, careful strokes using the whole length of the blade, by pulling back with your elbow and letting the knife do the work; do not push with the knife or “chop” the fish. Slices should be as thin as you can get, about 2 millimeters for a firm-fleshed fish. Depending on the size of the loin, you are looking for 6–9 slices, or 3 ounces.
3
Place 1 tbsp za’atar on the plate next to the sliced fish, and pour a glug of smoked olive oil over the fish and the za’atar. Finish by crushing the Maldon salt between your fingers directly over the fish. Top with cilantro. Serve with warm bread.
Ingredients
For the za’atar (if you're not using store-bought product)
1 tbsp sumac
1 tbsp black sesame seeds, toasted
1 tbsp white sesame seeds, toasted
1 tsp fennel pollen
1 tsp Piment d’Ville brand piment d’espellette, Aleppo chile, or 1/2 tsp finely ground chiles
1 tsp good-quality dried Mediterranean oregano
¼ tsp fresh thyme
¼ tsp kosher salt
For the crudo
1 loin Pacifico Aquaculture striped bass, Kurodai, or mackerel
1 tsp za’atar, available online, or make by combining ingredients above
1 tbsp Omed smoked olive oil (or substitute smoked Maldon salt and a good picual olive oil)
1 large pinch Maldon salt
4 cilantro leaves, or onion flowers when in season
Directions
1
Make the za’atar: (Skip to the next step if you’re using store-bought za’atar.) Mixing well, combine all za’atar ingredients at left. Set aside.
2
Prepare the dish: Using a very sharp knife, preferably a slicing knife, make long slices perpendicular to the grain of the muscles in the fish. The lines that you see are the direction of the grain—you are slicing across them, not with them. Make long, careful strokes using the whole length of the blade, by pulling back with your elbow and letting the knife do the work; do not push with the knife or “chop” the fish. Slices should be as thin as you can get, about 2 millimeters for a firm-fleshed fish. Depending on the size of the loin, you are looking for 6–9 slices, or 3 ounces.
3
Place 1 tbsp za’atar on the plate next to the sliced fish, and pour a glug of smoked olive oil over the fish and the za’atar. Finish by crushing the Maldon salt between your fingers directly over the fish. Top with cilantro. Serve with warm bread.
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