‘Yellowstone’s’ Costume Designer Tells You How to Get the Western Look Just Right

There’s no arguing that country fashion is having a moment, and who better to speak to it than Johnetta Boone, a 30-year veteran costume designer for the hit show Yellowstone, whose final season will air later this fall. Boone grew up horsing and recently was a speaker at the modern SoCal rodeo called IRON. Here, she shares her insights on the next wave of the iconic style that has serious staying power.

Justin Boone

Some people are “all hat, no cattle” and dress up in fast-fashion Western wear but don’t understand the ranching lifestyle. How important are history and mindful sourcing?

If you are buying online from the massive souvenir sources, you don’t get to interact with the craftspeople. It’s part of their livelihood, the culture of their family, and the history of their inheritance. But while the authenticity of the cowboys and ranchers is missing, the trend can help bring back culture itself. The quantity of cowboy boots and hats has more than tripled as a result of the trend moving in that direction. And I know that a lot of artisans are very grateful because their businesses have almost shut down. You don’t find as many working ranches these days, so they’ve got to get a stream of income from someplace.

How does that come into play with the show?

I go to the source directly. I’m going to the saddlemakers, and the artisans who make the leggings, which most people know as chaps. I go to hatmakers that are small because it’s important to keep those alive. So, I’m doing my part to give vitality to a culture that’s otherwise taking a nap because they don’t have any more time or space to continue in their craft because you have to have money in order to produce.

Courtesy of Paramount Network

Why do you think this idea of being a cowboy is so appealing right now, specifically

Taylor [Sheridan] has this line in the show, “People are going to forget where food comes from,” and people have forgotten where food comes from. They don’t realize that cowboys, they’re the ones that are herding the cattle, roping the steer, and gathering what otherwise is known as the meat for the table. People really are looking to spend time with themselves, uninterrupted. When you’re on ranches, there’s no cellphone service. You are one with nature and that horse, and it’s a beautiful experience.

What are some heritage makers that you find yourself returning to for the show? I specifically adhere to the original brands. Levi’s is the first company that made dungarees. They’re the first people that made denim. Cowboys have been wearing Levi’s since the 1800s. Ariat and Lucchese, for instance, most people don’t realize that they’ve been around for as long as they have. And I love Larry Mahan, that’s where my boots are from.

Courtesy of Paramount Network

Any favorite flea markets you’ve found in your travels?

I love the Out West Market in Ventura. There’s Pickwick Vintage, they do popups in L.A. quite often. In Montana, I love The Creamery Antique Mall in Stevensville. And then, there’s quite a few vintage stores in Missoula that I would also find myself hitting. There’s a wonderful antique mall called Montana Antique Mall that’s four stories high.

What are unexpected ways to give a New West feel to a more basic outfit?

Absolutely! Pull out those bandanas, otherwise known as wild rags, which cowboys wear to keep the dust off their faces. And instead of using a scarf holder, you can use that beautiful sterling ring that you absolutely love but is too small for your fingers.

If you were to recommend one film to watch to learn the style of the Old West, what would it be?

Everybody loves a Clint Eastwood movie, but Ken Burns’ The West is a great documentary. If you’re watching a Western, it’s been designed by another costume designer. They’re using their artistic license to render images that replicate the Western culture. But if you are looking at documentaries, you’re going to get real people in the real world of cowboying.