Potatoes Noisette on Potato Purée
Thomas J. Story
For a Thanksgiving feast at Wolves & People Brewery, on a hazelnut farm in Oregon’s Willamette Valley, chefs Jaret Foster and Mona Johnson created this tribute to the farm. They cut potatoes into tiny balls with a melon baller, sautéed them, and then roasted them to a crunchy golden brown–until each resembled a “noisette” (French for hazelnut). Then they piled the potato balls on a bed of ultra-rich potato purée. Despite its vast amount of butter, the purée doesn’t taste greasy; instead, it’s like a cloud. That said, you can still make luscious potatoes with half the butter.
This recipe, and others like it, can be found in the article “All the Thanksgiving Recipes You Need, from Turkey to Pie (and Beyond).”
How to Make It
Step 1
1
Preheat oven to 450°. Using a small melon-baller (3/4- to 1-in. diameter), scoop out as many potato balls as possible from 2/3 of russet potatoes and 2/3 of Yukon Golds. Drop potato balls into a bowl of water as you shape them, to prevent browning.
Step 2
2
Cut holey potatoes into 2-in. chunks and drop into a large pot of well-salted water. Cut remaining potatoes into 1-in. chunks and add to pot, with enough water to cover. Bring potatoes to a boil, covered. Reduce heat and simmer until tender, 15 to 20 minutes.
Step 3
3
Heat cream just until steaming. Drain potatoes; set pot back on stove. Pour half of hot cream into pot and add 1/2 cup butter. In batches, pass hot potatoes through a potato ricer into pot, alternating with rest of cream and 1 1/2 cups butter. Stir potatoes until smooth; then stir in 1 tsp. salt and 3/4 tsp. pepper. Add more salt or pepper if you like. Keep warm over very low heat until serving or, if making ahead, cover surface of potatoes with plastic wrap and pour a little cream on top of the wrap to keep a skin from forming. Chill.
Step 4
4
Pat potato balls dry in a kitchen towel. Heat 2 large cast-iron or other heavy-bottomed pans over medium-high heat. Add 2 tbsp. clarified butter to each and swirl to coat. Add potato balls in a single layer and season lightly with salt and pepper. Brown well all over, 10 to 15 minutes.
Step 5
5
Top potatoes with thyme sprigs and bake in pans or on a rimmed baking sheet in a single layer until very crisp, turning occasionally, 15 to 30 minutes. Toss with remaining 2 tbsp. butter, the parsley, and salt and pepper to taste.
Step 6
6
Spoon warm potato purée onto a platter and mound potatoes noisette on top.
Ingredients
6 to 6 1/2 lbs. large russet potatoes, peeled, divided
2 pounds large Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled, divided
2 cups heavy cream
1 pound plus 2 tbsp. unsalted butter, softened, cut into chunks
About 1 tsp. kosher salt
About 3/4 tsp. freshly ground pepper
4 tablespoons clarified butter, or a mix of 2 tbsp. each unsalted butter and grapeseed or avocado oil
3 to 4 large fresh thyme sprigs
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Directions
Step 1
1
Preheat oven to 450°. Using a small melon-baller (3/4- to 1-in. diameter), scoop out as many potato balls as possible from 2/3 of russet potatoes and 2/3 of Yukon Golds. Drop potato balls into a bowl of water as you shape them, to prevent browning.
Step 2
2
Cut holey potatoes into 2-in. chunks and drop into a large pot of well-salted water. Cut remaining potatoes into 1-in. chunks and add to pot, with enough water to cover. Bring potatoes to a boil, covered. Reduce heat and simmer until tender, 15 to 20 minutes.
Step 3
3
Heat cream just until steaming. Drain potatoes; set pot back on stove. Pour half of hot cream into pot and add 1/2 cup butter. In batches, pass hot potatoes through a potato ricer into pot, alternating with rest of cream and 1 1/2 cups butter. Stir potatoes until smooth; then stir in 1 tsp. salt and 3/4 tsp. pepper. Add more salt or pepper if you like. Keep warm over very low heat until serving or, if making ahead, cover surface of potatoes with plastic wrap and pour a little cream on top of the wrap to keep a skin from forming. Chill.
Step 4
4
Pat potato balls dry in a kitchen towel. Heat 2 large cast-iron or other heavy-bottomed pans over medium-high heat. Add 2 tbsp. clarified butter to each and swirl to coat. Add potato balls in a single layer and season lightly with salt and pepper. Brown well all over, 10 to 15 minutes.
Step 5
5
Top potatoes with thyme sprigs and bake in pans or on a rimmed baking sheet in a single layer until very crisp, turning occasionally, 15 to 30 minutes. Toss with remaining 2 tbsp. butter, the parsley, and salt and pepper to taste.
Step 6
6
Spoon warm potato purée onto a platter and mound potatoes noisette on top.
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